Racism in fashion? Surely not!

Mario Epanya is a Cameroon-born fashion photographer who is currently living in Paris. Alongside his work as a photographer he has been campaigning for an African edition of international fashion bible, Vogue. Epanya has created a series of fictional covers for the magazine using exclusively African models. However the magazine’s publisher, Condé Nast, have rejected the proposal, sparking outrage from across the world. Don’t Panic spoke to Epanya about the impact of the decision on African fashion, African women and ideals of beauty.    

What was your initial reaction when you heard Condé Nast’s decision to reject your proposition for a Vogue Africa?

Well in a very conservative world, I knew the answer would be negative, but I wanted to have a confirmation of that, at the same time there's no reason to continue the innovation.

 

Where did your idea to do the mock covers come from?

Gosh, that's a long time dream darling! I was born with a Vogue in my hand. Seriously, my mother is a tailor and she lives in Africa – she has been buying Vogue since 1970. She has a huge collection and I remember splendid times in her atelier looking at Vogue magazine. I ate Vogue, I drank Vogue, I slept Vogue... till now, but sadly, there's not enough diversity. Then last year I decided to do the covers… it’s that simple.

 

What made you decide to do the campaign?

I was tired of seeing titles like, "she was the first black model to ‘grace’ the cover of Vogue.” Tired of seeing this ten times about the same model... ALLO! We're around! We read and we are buyers too... come on! And as I said, one word – DIVERSITY darling, DI-VER-SI-TY!

 

There are some very successful African models such as Alex Wek and Iman, don’t you think they represent African women in the fashion industry?

Of course, Iman, Alec, Liya… my fierce Naomi (love her) are my girls and they represent black beauty proudly, but that doesn't mean we should stand and clap ours hands because we’ve got ten supermodels – give me a break! And fashion is not only about modelling, there's an industry behind it: designers, shows, advertising, magazines, agencies, photography, beauty, cosmetics, and jewellery.

 

What’s more, all this creativity has got to be seen and taken to a higher level and I’m sorry, right now only Vogue can do that – no matter what people and haters say – because Vogue is not only a magazine, it's an institution that reveals talent to the world! Look at me – I've been around for almost 15 years now working in fashion. Do you think I'll be here today answering to your questions if I did not mention Vogue!? Vogue makes miracles ok?

 

Some bloggers have suggested that a Vogue Africa would not be a celebration of African beauty but rather Africans trying to confirm to white ideas of beauty – what do you think about this?

Well, I think if Africa gets involved in what they want to see in magazines and how they see themselves, it can be interesting. People talk, talk and talk, but still in some countries in Africa, a beautiful woman will have lighter skin and weaves whereas a darker-skinned woman is considered ugly. That's the explanation for this horrible bleaching problem in the African community, but I think a magazine should educate too and talk about all this and as I said, diversity.

 

Now that the idea has been rejected, are you going to carry on campaigning?

LOL, the campaign is carrying itself! The internet coverage is AMAZING, even USA Today and The New York Post are talking about it – Oprah and CNN are the next goals. I think this is going to be a passionate debate and I can't do anything about it, but personally I have turned the page – I’ve done my last mock up cover. I’m working on new projects.

 

You are a beauty photographer – from your experience why do you think the fashion industry is so preoccupied with ideals of white beauty, when it is an industry based on innovation and new ideas?

Well, well, well, tough question, but I’ll try to answer it in a very simple way. I think it's political. The market was made for the Western countries, and people were always taught things will never change, but the fact is that the world is changing. China, Brazil, India, South Africa are the new market, with trillions of people, with different cultures. The big question is: do they want Western culture or their own? I think culture is about sharing for a better culture don't you?

 

Do you think Vogue Africa would be relevant to the native population?

Vogue Africa is just a symbol dedicated to all people of African descent no matter where they are: Africa, America, Australia, Europe, West Indies, Brazil, Jamaica...We all have the same Motherland.

 

What are the main inspirations behind your work?

Africa, Beauty, Nature, Creativity, Culture.

 

If you could put anyone on the cover of Vogue who would it be?

A group of black women readers from every part of the world.

 

Find out more on Vogue Africa at Epanya’s website and join the cause via his facebook group.

 

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  guest- Mail / Posted on: Wed 28 / Jul / 2010, 18:59

   

  Just an update : I am sorry this is the way people think and it all should turn into racism or again jump on Vogue and decide it all to be a racist act. I am dark, working in fashion, working international and can tell you this. Africa is not a country, there is no such thing as vogue Europe and we should give praise to people like Edward Enninfull, Patty Wilson , Path McGrath and many more who choose to work with models of color and only use the top. They show the best standard from all races and represent , so all races can enjoy the beauty of the top models of color they work with, like they do with European models. It could add up if we would know the true creators of beauty for all like these heroes. I believe the knowledge that teams at vogue are only using the best models of color with the best teams on the planet, is something we should be happy about. If there has to be a vogue based on skin color, that would only mean that our skin tone stands for everything we are.I personally reject to be seen as limited as that. I am more than just my color and proud of who I AM. It is faith who has given me this colour, so my skin color is nothing to take pride in nor anything to feel bad about.The benefits i get from my skin tone are all personally and do not add up to all the other talents, skills and effort i have put into becoming who I am now and am very , very proud of those.I am beautiful, I AM, I am talented, I am successful, I am strong and I my skin tone is very dark. I take pride in people of all colours who have fought to change things on our planet for the better and still do. Even my beauty regime is something i take pride in, since i have to put effort into keeping it all looking healthy and shiny .;)) My question would be: Why did Mario choose the tittle Vogue, it must be because he, like most people (including myself ) ,probably is impressed by the standard set forth by Conde Nast. And rightfully so .If Mario really believes ,and many people with a colored skin/people of color would support his believe, that his working, creative, inspirational, style and bussines standards meet the standards required by Conde Nast , with all this knowledge gets rejected by Conde Nast only because he would want to portray Women of color for Vogue Africa, than he should only see this as a great opportunity and a big chance given by Conde Nast to start his own magazine. In that case, it will all prove to be a great blessing which he should reach out and touch. I am sure that if all the people who are fighting this" so called " battle for him and in his name, would gladly be part of his tittle and show their appreciation by purchasing the magazine on a monthly basis or annually subscribe to it. With this and all the turmoil this message has caused on the net, the tittle could go international form day one, and that would be a blessing for both Mario and his followers.And then he can make miracles happen, just like he think they should. Ilanga van Throo