When nuclear war breaks out and the plebs are screaming in the streets, clutching their new born babies as the radiation burns the skin from their bodies, the politicians will be sitting comfortably in an air conditioned bunker somewhere in Neasden. Twas always thus.

Spacious studio apartment with open plan kitchen and exposed wooden floors

This particular bunker was built in 1939 to protect Churchill in the event of a major gas attack. It’s codenamed Paddock… and it’s in Neasden. It is one the few bunkers legally allowing visitors right now. On the inside it’s jet black, flooded with two feet of water and every room is suffocated with the stench of fertile mould.

Torches to hand we descend into Level One which unfolds into a labyrinth of corridors, escape stairwells and ghostly rooms, all vacant of life. Brian our guide reveals they were once offices and some of the door buzzers remain in place.

Toilet facilities at the Old Blue Last.

Level Two is claustrophobic and scary. The ceiling is six foot of reinforced concrete to resist a direct hit but the blast proof door now lies rusted off its hinge. Machinery stands sunken-chested in the corners. The giant fan would purify the air through tanks of water while outside everyone else would be choking on the noxious gas fumes.

Not quite an iPhone, but it worked.

A telephone exchange (above) still bears the Cabinet War Room initials CWR. This is the room we’re next led into. No surprise that extra ventilation is fitted here for Churchill's cigar.

Squatters rights...

In another room is a battery store. It is lined with acid resistant tiles that are fitted today in nuclear shelters. I’m finding it all very intriguing until Brian leaves me alone in a stairwell. Then the set-up becomes alarmingly reminiscent of Silent Hill. I scream when my faint torch flashes on a black hand floating there in the dark. But it’s not a hand, it’s a glove on the end of a banister. People are always losing their gloves, even down bunkers.

Live mould grows on every wall.

We’re finally resurfacing but Brian stops to make a final observation. There are no toilets. He explains that the difference between a gas bunker and one specific to nuclear attack is the length of stay; usually four to five hours for gas and five to six weeks for nuclear. Would the shelter withstand nuclear attack? Yes, if it wasn’t a direct hit and the ventilation was restored. But cabin(et) fever would probably set in not long after the door was closed…

Please note that the next opening day for Churchill's Bunker will take place in May 2008. If you have any queries or would like to make a booking please contact Katy Bajina via email kbajina@networkhg.org.uk or by telephone 020 8782 4239.

For more information about Churchill's Bunker, contact Maria Michael:

Email mmichael@networkhg.org.uk
Tel 020 8782 4235

Photography by Greg Falski